“Now” doesn't mean now. It actually means ‘later’. Your waiter
will say “I’ll be with you now” and then walk away. “Now now” means you’ll be
waiting even longer.
Greetings are essential. Especially in the Xhosa culture. And
not just “Hello,” but “How are you feeling this morning?” A comment about the
weather, a question about their family. If you don’t greet properly, you will
be called out- “Sisi, why didn’t you say hello to me?”
Directions are more like guidelines. And are often only given
with hand gestures. Be prepared to ask a few times. And to be patient.
Africa time is real. And the best part of it is they both know
and acknowledge it. The principal will say something like, “The prize giving
will begin at 10:30. Oh but you know, it’s Africa time. So maybe at noon”.
When in doubt, add more salt and sugar. The Xhosa people love
these little white granules more than any culture I have ever met. The amount
of sugar put in a coffee or salt added to a dish shocked me every time!
I wish I could sing. Music is incorporated into just about
everything in the Xhosa culture- into prayer, into assemblies, into
festivities. They start singing when they are young and it doesn't stop when
they get older. They have the most beautiful voices, harmonize so naturally,
and aren't shy to sing for you!
America is efficient. Our service is fast and attentive. We
know how to produce good food quickly and package it in a to-go container that
actually stays intact. We fill out forms online. Companies have websites. The
apps on our phones pay our bills, give us directions, and find us the best
happy hour specials in a 2 mile radius. While there is a lot to value about a
slower lifestyle here, it made me appreciate how well America gets shit done!
Errands take a long time and might be an adventure if you don’t have a
car. A year of public taxis (minibuses) as our transport taught me to
be patient, taught me that you can fit more people/food/goods into one vehicle
than you could imagine, made me appreciate every opportunity to sit in a real
car, and reminded me that despite the beautiful flats and chic restaurants
lining the beach front, I am still in southern Africa (as my taxi is reversing
backwards down a major road to pick up a Mama with a big bag on her head
walking down a side street).
I have a weak American stomach. And apparently we don’t have
much resistance to the basic “bugs” that people here are used to. I learned how
to be sick this year and need to work toughening up a little bit next year...
Be careful if you start doing your running training with Ironmen. Next
thing you know, you’re signing up for the Two Oceans Ultra Marathon when you’ve
never even run a standard length marathon. And the fact that you did that
surprises no one.
Don’t bring chicken fillets to a braai. Bring chicken sosaties (skewers), boerewors (sausages), pork
chops, even potatoes… but don’t bring fillets. And if you do, and people are
looking around like “who brought the fillets?” just act oblivious. Obviously,
it wasn’t you. And make roosterkoeks (braai bread)- the best addition to the
non-fillet dinner you’ve prepared.
I look American. Maybe
it’s the backpack and 2 stainless steel, Klean Kanteen water bottles I seem to
carry everywhere, or the fact that I walk most places, but it seems us Yankees
are pretty easy to spot. My water bottle and I became quite a joke with most of
my friends here.
Ndingafunda isiXhosa! I can learn Xhosa! An idea that terrified
me when I learned at orientation that the province of South Africa I would be
moving to spoke the indigenous language full of clicks. But after a year of
lessons, I can get by in simple conversations and my clicks aren’t half bad.
Lekker, jol, kiff, keen, fetch, oakes, no man, ja, bru, howzit, bakkie.
The never ending list of South African slang/sayings I’ve either adopted or
become accustomed to hearing this year.
Rugby is king. And is
quite similar to American football- a pleasant surprise.
I’m kind of a freak with food. Living and cooking with Alice
who loves food as much as I do while simultaneously being paid enough to buy
every luxury herb and cooking oil we desire has allowed us to go a bit crazy in
the kitchen and eat like rich 30 year olds. No such thing as a simple meal in
this house hold- Pad Thai, homemade white bean burgers, chicken picatta, the
list goes on… Going to have to learn to lower my standards a bit next year.
I have met some of the most kind, hospitable people this year.
I have been overwhelmed by how welcoming and kind people have been to me this
year. People of all ages, races, and cultures. Everyone from the students I
worked with at Walmer who tirelessly practiced Xhosa with us and learned to
understand our American accents, to my wonderful running club who took me on
weekend hikes and races in beautiful parts of the country I’d never seen. To
Ouma, the tiny Afrikaans woman in Rustenburg who cooked me eggs and sat and
chatted to me over dinner at her guest farm when she realized my only other
option was to try and squeeze into a prawn bake with 100 platinum miners… No
thanks. To the computer technicians at Matrix Warehouse who were so friendly
and helpful to us with any technology problem we had all year. To Andrew, who
spent a good majority of this year showing me the ins and outs of this city,
driving me all over creation (and then teaching me how to drive), teaching me
all the slang I need to know, and introducing me to friends. I have truly been
blessed and am excited to be able to continue these friendships next year.
Alice Bator and I may have merged into one. One “lesson” doesn’t
do an ounce of justice for this girl. She has been my rock this year. My
co-chef, taxi partner, wingman, voice of reason, travel companion, and so much
more. We crave the same foods and like the same wine. We get tired at the same
time. We crack up about the same strange things that happen here that remind us
we are so far from America. We whine about missing the same things from home. We get sick at the same time. We read each other’s minds. And we meet up at the
airport in Joburg coming from different cities wearing the exact same outfit. I
can’t believe how lucky I am to have been placed with Al and am actually a
little scared about what is going to happen to our bodies when we have to finally
separate..
I have an unbelievable support system of friends and family at home.
Especially in my decision to come back and teach in South Africa next year. It is not easy for
me to be this far away from all that I love at home. It is hard for me
to be a good friend, sister, and daughter to those I love the most with the
time change, limited internet, and distance, but despite all this, I
have received nothing but support and encouragement from those stateside in my
projects this year and the ones to come. I could not do this without all your love.
Thank you for being part of this experience this year and I can’t wait to see you all soon!
South Africa, you've been good to me. See ya in 2013!
xx
